Beard dandruff and itch

What it is

Beard dandruff means flakes in the beard and itchy, sometimes greasy or scaly skin underneath. In most men it is a mild form of seborrhoeic dermatitis, the same condition that causes dandruff on the scalp and flaking around the nose and eyebrows.

How it works

A yeast called Malassezia lives on everyone's skin and feeds on skin oil. In some people the skin reacts to it with inflammation, faster shedding and flakes. Beards trap oil and dead skin, which makes the problem more likely. It comes and goes, and is often worse in cold or dry weather, with stress and when you are run down.

Why it matters on darker skin

On brown and black skin the flaky patches may look lighter or darker than the surrounding skin rather than red, and they can leave pale or dark marks that take time to even out. Because the colour change can be mistaken for a fungal infection or eczema, it helps to know the typical pattern: flaking in the beard, eyebrows and around the nose, often with scalp dandruff too.

Causes and triggers

An oily, untreated beard, washing too rarely, heavy oils and greases, stress, lack of sleep, cold or dry harmattan weather, and alcohol-based aftershaves on irritated skin.

What helps — and why it works

Brush or comb the beard gently each day before washing your face to lift flakes. At least once a week, wash the beard, the skin under it and your scalp with an anti-dandruff shampoo containing zinc pyrithione, ketoconazole or selenium sulfide, and leave it on for a few minutes before rinsing so it can work on the yeast. On other days use a gentle, fragrance-free wash, then a light, fragrance-free moisturiser on the skin. If the skin is itchy and inflamed, a pharmacist may suggest a mild hydrocortisone for a short time. Shaving the beard off can also help, if you are happy to do that. Keep using the medicated shampoo once a week after it clears to stop it returning.

What to avoid and why

Avoid scratching and picking at flakes, plant oils such as olive oil (the yeast can feed on them) and heavy greases that trap flakes, alcohol-based products on irritated skin, and long courses of steroid or "mixed" creams bought without advice, which can thin the skin and cause new problems.

Common mistakes

• Rinsing the medicated shampoo off straight away.
• Stopping treatment as soon as it improves.
• Adding more beard oil to "fix" the dryness.
• Using antifungal or steroid creams from the market without knowing what is in them.

Questions to ask your doctor or pharmacist

Useful questions include: What do you think is causing this? Is it likely to come back, and how can I prevent it? Which products should I stop? How long before I should expect improvement, and when should I come back if it isn't better? Are there side effects to watch for? Is this treatment safe if I am pregnant, breastfeeding or for my child? Writing your questions down, bringing your products (or photos of their labels) and taking dated photos of the problem make an appointment much more useful.