Caring for an afro: moisture, detangling and shrinkage

What it is

An afro is natural hair worn in its full, rounded shape. Afro-textured (coily or kinky) hair grows in tight spirals and zig-zags. It is beautiful and versatile, but each bend in the strand is a weak point, and the scalp's natural oils travel down it slowly, so it dries out and breaks more easily than straight hair.

How it works

Healthy hair depends on moisture (water) held in by something that slows its loss (conditioner, cream, butter or oil), and on avoiding mechanical damage from combing, pulling and friction. Shrinkage happens because coils spring up as they dry: hair can look half or less of its real length. That is natural for coily hair, not damage.

Why it matters for afro-textured hair

Most hair-care advice is written for straight or wavy hair. Washing coily hair every day, brushing it dry or using strong sulfate shampoos often leaves it dry and brittle. Breakage from rough handling, tight styles and heat is a common reason people think their hair "does not grow", when in fact it is snapping off as fast as it grows.

Causes and triggers

Dryness from harsh shampoos and harmattan air, combing dry hair, detangling from the roots down, tight styles, frequent high heat, rough cotton pillowcases and towels, and product build-up that blocks moisture.

What helps — and why it works

Wash every one to two weeks with a gentle, sulfate-free shampoo, or "co-wash" with a cleansing conditioner between washes. Condition every time you wash, concentrating on the ends; a deep conditioner or a warm oil treatment every couple of weeks adds softness and stretch (test the temperature first: it should feel warm, not hot). Detangle only when hair is wet and slippery with conditioner: divide it into four or more sections, use your fingers first, then a wide-tooth comb, starting at the ends and working up to the roots. Then moisturise: a water-based leave-in, then a little oil, then a cream or butter (the LOC method: liquid, oil, cream); some people prefer cream before oil (LCO). Protect your hair at night with a satin or silk bonnet, scarf or pillowcase, or gather it loosely on top of your head ("pineapple"). Trim split ends every few months, more often if they are breaking.

What to avoid and why

Avoid daily washing and harsh sulfate shampoos, combing or brushing dry hair, tugging at knots, high heat several times a week, and heavy products that build up. Avoid products with water-insoluble silicones if your hair feels coated: they can stop moisture getting in. Avoid relaxers and texturisers on hair you want to keep natural.

Common mistakes

• Detangling from the roots down.
• Skipping conditioner because the hair "feels clean".
• Piling on oil without water first, so the hair stays dry underneath.
• Judging growth by shrunken length.

Handling textured hair gently

Coily and curly hair is naturally the most fragile hair type because each bend in the strand is a weak point and natural oils travel down it slowly. That makes handling — how often and how firmly hair is combed, styled and pulled — as important as which products you buy. Detangle only when hair is wet and coated in conditioner, working in sections from the ends towards the roots with fingers or a wide-tooth comb. Keep heat to the lowest effective setting and always use a heat protectant. Sleep on satin or silk, or wear a satin bonnet, to reduce friction. Between wash days, a water-based leave-in followed by a light oil or cream helps hold moisture. Give the scalp attention too: it is skin, and needs regular cleansing, especially under wigs, weaves and braids, to prevent build-up, itch and infection. Any style that hurts, causes bumps or leaves the scalp tender is too tight and should be loosened. Hair grows about one centimetre a month, so changes in care take two to three months to show in length and thickness.

Scalp health and product choice

Choose a shampoo that suits the scalp and a conditioner that suits the lengths: the scalp may need cleansing or a medicated shampoo while the ends need moisture. Fragrance, essential oils and heavy waxes can irritate a sensitive scalp or cause build-up, and heavy oils on the scalp may worsen dandruff. Look for a clear ingredient list and a NAFDAC number, and patch-test new dyes and relaxers 48 hours before every use. Products that promise dramatic growth are usually untested; the treatments with the best evidence for pattern hair loss are medicines such as minoxidil, which should be started only after speaking to a pharmacist or doctor. Signs that you need medical advice rather than a new product include patches of hair loss, scarring or shiny skin, pain, pus, or shedding that continues for more than six months.

Questions to ask your doctor or pharmacist

Useful questions include: What do you think is causing this? Is it likely to come back, and how can I prevent it? Which products should I stop? How long before I should expect improvement, and when should I come back if it isn't better? Are there side effects to watch for? Is this treatment safe if I am pregnant, breastfeeding or for my child? Writing your questions down, bringing your products (or photos of their labels) and taking dated photos of the problem make an appointment much more useful.