Hair breakage

What it is

Breakage is when hair snaps along the shaft rather than shedding from the root. It shows up as short broken pieces, split ends and hair that seems not to grow.

How it works

Textured hair has twists and turns along its length, which are natural weak points. Each bend lifts the cuticle slightly, so coily hair loses moisture faster and snaps under tension. Breakage is a hair-fibre problem, not a root problem.

Why it matters on darker skin

Tightly coiled hair has natural twist points where it is weaker, and natural oils travel down the shaft less easily, so it is drier and more fragile. Heat, chemicals, tight styles and rough handling add to this.

Causes and triggers

Dry hair, rough detangling, heat, chemicals, tight styles, cotton pillowcases, and over-manipulation.

What helps — and why it works

Detangle gently when hair is damp and conditioned, from ends to roots, using fingers or a wide-tooth comb. Moisturise and seal regularly, use protective styles that are not tight, sleep on satin or silk, and trim split ends. Limit heat and protect with a heat protectant when you use it. Detangle wet with conditioner, from ends to roots: slippery hair needs less force. Expected timeline: immediate. Moisturise and seal (LOC/LCO): water hydrates, oil/cream seals it in. Expected timeline: noticeable in 2–4 weeks. Satin bonnet or pillowcase: reduces friction overnight. Expected timeline: immediate. Trim split ends: stops splits travelling up the hair. Expected timeline: every 2–3 months.

What to avoid and why

Avoid brushing dry hair, frequent flat ironing, harsh sulfate shampoos for daily use and tight elastic bands.

Common mistakes

• Dry combing.
• High heat without protectant.
• Constant styling changes.

Handling textured hair gently

Coily and curly hair is naturally the most fragile hair type because each bend in the strand is a weak point and natural oils travel down it slowly. That makes handling — how often and how firmly hair is combed, styled and pulled — as important as which products you buy. Detangle only when hair is wet and coated in conditioner, working in sections from the ends towards the roots with fingers or a wide-tooth comb. Keep heat to the lowest effective setting and always use a heat protectant. Sleep on satin or silk, or wear a satin bonnet, to reduce friction. Between wash days, a water-based leave-in followed by a light oil or cream helps hold moisture. Give the scalp attention too: it is skin, and needs regular cleansing, especially under wigs, weaves and braids, to prevent build-up, itch and infection. Any style that hurts, causes bumps or leaves the scalp tender is too tight and should be loosened. Hair grows about one centimetre a month, so changes in care take two to three months to show in length and thickness.

Scalp health and product choice

Choose a shampoo that suits the scalp and a conditioner that suits the lengths: the scalp may need cleansing or a medicated shampoo while the ends need moisture. Fragrance, essential oils and heavy waxes can irritate a sensitive scalp or cause build-up, and heavy oils on the scalp may worsen dandruff. Look for a clear ingredient list and a NAFDAC number, and patch-test new dyes and relaxers 48 hours before every use. Products that promise dramatic growth are usually untested; the treatments with the best evidence for pattern hair loss are medicines such as minoxidil, which should be started only after speaking to a pharmacist or doctor. Signs that you need medical advice rather than a new product include patches of hair loss, scarring or shiny skin, pain, pus, or shedding that continues for more than six months.

Questions to ask your doctor or pharmacist

Useful questions include: What do you think is causing this? Is it likely to come back, and how can I prevent it? Which products should I stop? How long before I should expect improvement, and when should I come back if it isn't better? Are there side effects to watch for? Is this treatment safe if I am pregnant, breastfeeding or for my child? Writing your questions down, bringing your products (or photos of their labels) and taking dated photos of the problem make an appointment much more useful.