Relaxer safety

What it is

Relaxers are strong alkaline chemicals that permanently straighten tightly curled hair by breaking bonds inside the hair shaft. Used poorly they can cause scalp burns, breakage and hair loss.

How it works

Relaxers break the disulphide bonds that give hair its curl, using strong alkalis (lye: sodium hydroxide; 'no-lye': calcium or guanidine hydroxide). These chemicals can burn the scalp and weaken hair fibres permanently.

Why it matters on darker skin

Relaxers are widely used in Nigeria. Overlapping applications, scratching before relaxing and leaving them on too long are common causes of damage. Some studies have linked frequent use of chemical straighteners with health risks, which is an area of ongoing research.

Causes and triggers

Leaving relaxer on too long, applying to the scalp or broken skin, overlapping previously relaxed hair, and relaxing too often. Some studies have linked frequent chemical straightener use with certain cancers; evidence is still developing.

What helps — and why it works

Consider a professional stylist and fewer touch-ups (every 8 to 10 weeks at most), applying only to new growth. Protect the scalp and previously relaxed hair with a base or oil, follow timing exactly and neutralise thoroughly. Deep condition regularly and reduce heat styling. Professional application, base the scalp: reduces chemical contact with skin. Expected timeline: each session. Relax new growth only, at least 8–10 weeks apart: prevents over-processing and breakage. Expected timeline: long term. Neutralising shampoo and deep conditioning: stops the chemical reaction and restores softness. Expected timeline: immediate.

What to avoid and why

Do not scratch, comb vigorously or wash the scalp right before relaxing. Never relax over broken skin, sores or a recent burn, or combine with hair dye on the same day. Avoid relaxers on children.

Common mistakes

• Scratching or combing the scalp before relaxing.
• Ignoring burning — rinse at once.
• Relaxing children's hair.

Handling textured hair gently

Coily and curly hair is naturally the most fragile hair type because each bend in the strand is a weak point and natural oils travel down it slowly. That makes handling — how often and how firmly hair is combed, styled and pulled — as important as which products you buy. Detangle only when hair is wet and coated in conditioner, working in sections from the ends towards the roots with fingers or a wide-tooth comb. Keep heat to the lowest effective setting and always use a heat protectant. Sleep on satin or silk, or wear a satin bonnet, to reduce friction. Between wash days, a water-based leave-in followed by a light oil or cream helps hold moisture. Give the scalp attention too: it is skin, and needs regular cleansing, especially under wigs, weaves and braids, to prevent build-up, itch and infection. Any style that hurts, causes bumps or leaves the scalp tender is too tight and should be loosened. Hair grows about one centimetre a month, so changes in care take two to three months to show in length and thickness.

Scalp health and product choice

Choose a shampoo that suits the scalp and a conditioner that suits the lengths: the scalp may need cleansing or a medicated shampoo while the ends need moisture. Fragrance, essential oils and heavy waxes can irritate a sensitive scalp or cause build-up, and heavy oils on the scalp may worsen dandruff. Look for a clear ingredient list and a NAFDAC number, and patch-test new dyes and relaxers 48 hours before every use. Products that promise dramatic growth are usually untested; the treatments with the best evidence for pattern hair loss are medicines such as minoxidil, which should be started only after speaking to a pharmacist or doctor. Signs that you need medical advice rather than a new product include patches of hair loss, scarring or shiny skin, pain, pus, or shedding that continues for more than six months.

Questions to ask your doctor or pharmacist

Useful questions include: What do you think is causing this? Is it likely to come back, and how can I prevent it? Which products should I stop? How long before I should expect improvement, and when should I come back if it isn't better? Are there side effects to watch for? Is this treatment safe if I am pregnant, breastfeeding or for my child? Writing your questions down, bringing your products (or photos of their labels) and taking dated photos of the problem make an appointment much more useful.