Men's afros, twists, sponges and waves

What it is

Men with afro-textured hair wear it in many ways: a full afro or high-top, twists made with a sponge or by hand, short curly cuts, locs, and 360 waves (a short cut brushed daily into a rippling pattern and held with a durag). Each style can be healthy, but each puts different strain on the hair and scalp.

How it works

Coily hair is fragile whatever its length. Short styles put most of the strain on the scalp and hairline (frequent cutting, brushing and line-ups), while longer styles put it on the lengths (combing, twisting and tension). Waves form when short coily hair is brushed in the same direction repeatedly and kept flat with a durag. Sponge twists form when a textured sponge rolls short coils into clumps.

Why it matters for afro-textured hair

Razor bumps on the beard line and acne keloidalis nuchae at the back of the neck are common in Black men. Scalp ringworm from shared tools and traction hair loss at the temples are less common but do happen, especially with tight braids, locs or durags. Heavy brushing, very tight durags and scraping the hairline with edges and line-ups can thin the front and sides over time.

Causes and triggers

Brushing or sponging dry hair, hard brushes pressed into the scalp, durags tied tight enough to leave marks, heavy pomades and greases (which can trigger neck bumps and scalp build-up), razor line-ups, shared combs and brushes, and washing too rarely.

What helps — and why it works

Wash every one to two weeks with a gentle shampoo and condition every time; growing an afro needs the same detangling care as the "Caring for an afro" article describes. For twists, lightly dampen the hair and apply a leave-in or cream before using the sponge, and move the sponge gently without pressing down. For waves, brush damp, moisturised hair with a soft or medium brush, using light strokes; take breaks if the scalp feels sore. Choose a satin or silk durag and tie it just firmly enough to stay on, never tight enough to leave a mark or headache. At night, sleep in a durag, bonnet or on a satin pillowcase. Keep your own brush, comb and sponge, and wash them weekly. Ask your barber to follow your natural hairline and to use a guard rather than a razor at the neck if you get bumps.

What to avoid and why

Avoid brushing dry hair, hard pressure with the brush, durags tied tight, heavy grease or pomade on the scalp and neck, sharing brushes, sponges and durags, and pushing the hairline back with line-ups.

Common mistakes

• Brushing waves for long sessions on dry hair.
• Tying the durag tighter to "lock in" waves.
• Skipping conditioner because the hair is short.
• Ignoring small bumps at the nape until they scar.

Handling textured hair gently

Coily and curly hair is naturally the most fragile hair type because each bend in the strand is a weak point and natural oils travel down it slowly. That makes handling — how often and how firmly hair is combed, styled and pulled — as important as which products you buy. Detangle only when hair is wet and coated in conditioner, working in sections from the ends towards the roots with fingers or a wide-tooth comb. Keep heat to the lowest effective setting and always use a heat protectant. Sleep on satin or silk, or wear a satin bonnet, to reduce friction. Between wash days, a water-based leave-in followed by a light oil or cream helps hold moisture. Give the scalp attention too: it is skin, and needs regular cleansing, especially under wigs, weaves and braids, to prevent build-up, itch and infection. Any style that hurts, causes bumps or leaves the scalp tender is too tight and should be loosened. Hair grows about one centimetre a month, so changes in care take two to three months to show in length and thickness.

Scalp health and product choice

Choose a shampoo that suits the scalp and a conditioner that suits the lengths: the scalp may need cleansing or a medicated shampoo while the ends need moisture. Fragrance, essential oils and heavy waxes can irritate a sensitive scalp or cause build-up, and heavy oils on the scalp may worsen dandruff. Look for a clear ingredient list and a NAFDAC number, and patch-test new dyes and relaxers 48 hours before every use. Products that promise dramatic growth are usually untested; the treatments with the best evidence for pattern hair loss are medicines such as minoxidil, which should be started only after speaking to a pharmacist or doctor. Signs that you need medical advice rather than a new product include patches of hair loss, scarring or shiny skin, pain, pus, or shedding that continues for more than six months.

Questions to ask your doctor or pharmacist

Useful questions include: What do you think is causing this? Is it likely to come back, and how can I prevent it? Which products should I stop? How long before I should expect improvement, and when should I come back if it isn't better? Are there side effects to watch for? Is this treatment safe if I am pregnant, breastfeeding or for my child? Writing your questions down, bringing your products (or photos of their labels) and taking dated photos of the problem make an appointment much more useful.