Kohl, tiro & kwalli: how to choose, apply and wear it safely

Never put tiro, kohl, kwalli or tozali on a baby's or child's eyes. Traditional powders can be mostly lead — one tiro sample from Ilorin was 82.6% lead and poisoned a baby. "Lead-free" labels on these powders are not reliable. If tiro has been used on a child, stop and ask a clinic for a blood lead test.

Choosing it for deep skin

Tiro (Yoruba), kwalli and tozali (Hausa) carry real cultural and religious meaning. You can keep the look without the lead.
Choose a NAFDAC-registered eyeliner pencil with a full ingredient list. Modern eyeliners tested by Health Canada were not found to contain lead.
Do not buy loose kohl powder from markets or vendors. Powders were the problem in testing.
"Lead-free" printed on a traditional powder cannot be trusted.
Even small amounts of lead harm a child's growth, learning and behaviour.

How to apply

Choose a registered eyeliner pencilBlack or deep brown, with a NAFDAC number and full ingredient list.
Wash your handsWash and dry your hands first. Germs on your fingers can cause eye infections.
Sharpen and wipe the tipSharpen before each use and wipe off the shavings.
Line at the lash rootsDraw along the roots, outside the lashes, not on the inner waterline.
Smudge for the kohl lookSoften with a clean cotton bud for the traditional smoky look.
Wash your hands afterWash before touching food or children.

How long to wear it

A registered pencil lasts most of the day. Remove it every night; never sleep in eye makeup.
If you have used traditional kohl, stop now. Lead builds up in the body over time.

Don’t use it if

Never on a baby's or child's eyes — not for naming ceremonies, religious practice, "to strengthen the eyes" or any reason.
Never use traditional kohl, tiro, kwalli or tozali powder, for anyone.
Not in pregnancy: lead harms babies before birth.
During an eye infection, stye or eyelid eczema.
Do not share eye pencils, even within the family.

Safety and the evidence

Tiro bought in Ilorin was 82.6% lead and raised a 6-month-old baby's blood lead to 12–13 µg/dL.
Evidence C — case report · CDC MMWR 2012 — lead poisoning from tiro
52% of kohl and surma samples sold in the US were above 10 ppm lead. The highest (380,000 ppm) was labelled "lead-free".
Evidence C — market survey · Pure Earth 2025 — lead in traditional eyeliner
Lead is especially harmful to children. Small exposures before birth or in early childhood can cause learning and behaviour problems.
Evidence D — regulator guidance · Health Canada — lead in traditional kohl
Lead has been found in some local tiro; Nigeria's lead-elimination plan names cosmetics as a source.
Evidence C — reports; policy · Nigeria Health Watch 2026 — lead in cosmetics
The US FDA warns consumers about lead in kohl sold as tiro, tozali or kwalli.
Evidence D — regulator guidance · FDA — kohl, tiro, tozali, kwalli: beware of lead

Evidence grades: A systematic reviews or several trials; B at least one trial or consistent controlled studies; C observational studies, surveys or case reports; D expert opinion.

Keep it clean

Throw old tiro away safely: wrap it well and put it in the bin, out of children's reach.
Do not keep traditional kohl at home "just in case".
Wash your hands after handling old kohl, before touching children or food.
Sharpen your pencil before each use and never share it.

Important

See a doctor if

If tiro, kohl or kwalli has ever been used on a child, stop and ask a clinic for a blood lead test, even if the child seems well.
See a doctor for headaches, irritability, tummy pain, vomiting or learning problems in anyone who has used kohl.
If you are pregnant and have used traditional kohl, tell your antenatal clinic.
Go to an eye clinic or emergency the same day for eye pain, a change in vision or new sensitivity to light.

Emergency in Nigeria: call 112 or go to the nearest hospital.

Doctor review pending. Education only, not a diagnosis. Product types, not brands.

At a glance