Melanin & Me

Makeup · 4 min read

Kohl, tiro and lead: what Nigerian families should know

Doctor review pending

Traditional eye cosmetics can contain lead. Here is how to enjoy the look safely.

Illustration: traditional kohl pot and applicator stick on a carved wooden tray
AI-generated illustration, not a clinical photo.
  • Key pointSome traditional tiro/kohl contains lead
  • Key pointNever apply kohl to babies or children
  • Key pointChoose labelled, registered eyeliner instead
  • What the problem isTiro, kohl, kajal and surma are traditional eye cosmetics used across West Africa

Key points

  • Some traditional tiro/kohl contains lead.
  • Never apply kohl to babies or children.
  • Choose labelled, registered eyeliner instead.

What the problem is

Tiro, kohl, kajal and surma are traditional eye cosmetics used across West Africa, South Asia and the Middle East. Testing has repeatedly found that some traditional preparations are made from galena (lead sulphide) and can contain very high levels of lead. Lead is absorbed through the eyes, through hands that touch the eyes and then the mouth, and by children who touch it.

Why lead matters

There is no known safe level of lead exposure. In children it can lower IQ, affect attention and behaviour, and cause anaemia; in adults it raises blood pressure and can harm the kidneys. In pregnancy it crosses the placenta. Children are most vulnerable, which is why the practice of applying tiro to babies is a particular concern.

Safer choices

Do not apply traditional tiro or kohl to babies or children. Adults who love the look can choose a commercially produced eyeliner from a reputable brand with a full ingredient list and a NAFDAC number, labelled as made with approved pigments such as iron oxides or carbon black. Avoid powders sold loose without labels.

Important

If you are worried

If a child has used traditional kohl regularly and is pale, tired, irritable, has tummy pains or is behind in development, ask a doctor about a blood lead test. Do not try to treat lead exposure at home.

Visit a hospital or clinic near you and ask to see a dermatologist (skin specialist), or ask your general doctor for a referral. Take this page and the products you use with you. Emergency: call 112.

A long tradition

Tiro has deep cultural roots across Nigeria, particularly in the north, and is used for beauty, religious and traditional reasons. Many families believe it protects or cools the eyes, and it is often applied to newborns. Respecting this tradition while reducing harm is the goal: the look can be kept, while the lead is removed.

How lead gets in

Galena, the dark grey mineral traditionally ground to make tiro, is lead sulphide and can be more than 80 percent lead by weight. When applied, some is swallowed in tears that drain into the nose and throat; more is transferred by the fingers to food and the mouth. Babies and toddlers swallow more because they rub their eyes and put hands in their mouths, and their developing brains are most sensitive. Pregnant women who use it can pass lead to the baby.

What the research shows

Studies of traditional eye cosmetics bought in markets in several countries have found that many samples contain high lead levels, and children who used them have been found with raised blood lead levels. Lead poisoning usually causes no obvious early symptoms, which is why it is easy to miss. Over time it can cause learning and behaviour problems, anaemia, tummy pains and constipation, and in high doses seizures.

Not every black powder is the same

Some products sold as kohl are made from carbon (soot) or iron oxides rather than galena, and these do not carry the lead risk. The problem is that you cannot tell by looking. Unlabelled powders from markets, gifts from abroad or homemade preparations should be treated as possibly containing lead. A labelled cosmetic eyeliner with a full ingredient list and NAFDAC number is the safest option.

Practical steps for families

Stop using tiro on babies and children, including for cultural ceremonies; explain to grandparents that this is about lead, not about the tradition itself. Store any existing tiro out of reach of children. Wash hands after applying any eye cosmetic, before cooking and before feeding a baby. Do not use the same container on several family members, which also spreads eye infections.

Testing and treatment

A blood lead test is the only way to know a child's level. Ask a doctor if a child has used traditional kohl regularly, lives near battery recycling or mining, or has unexplained anaemia, developmental delay or pica (eating soil or paint). Treatment depends on the level and is decided by a doctor; the first and most important step is always removing the source.

Safer ways to keep the look

For ceremonies and everyday wear, a labelled black eye pencil or gel liner gives the same deep, smoky line. Apply it to the lash line rather than the waterline if your eyes are sensitive, sharpen pencils regularly, and keep your own pencil rather than sharing. Explain the switch to elders as a modern version of tiro that keeps the beauty and removes the lead — many families find this easier than giving up the custom.

Buying abroad or online

Products labelled kohl, kajal or surma bought abroad or online are not always regulated. Prefer brands that list ingredients in full and are registered in Nigeria, and avoid any that list lead sulphide, galena or "natural stone".

Sources

  1. FDA: Lead in cosmetics (includes kohl)
  2. WHO: Lead poisoning fact sheet

Source links checked 2026-10-12. Doctor review pending. Education only, not a diagnosis. Ask a doctor or pharmacist before starting treatment.