Melanin & Me

Makeup · 4 min read

The makeup allergen list: what to avoid if you react

Doctor review pending

Fragrance, MI/MCI, formaldehyde releasers, PPD, nickel, carmine and more — explained calmly.

Illustration: makeup items next to a small glass dish, ingredient focus, soft light
AI-generated illustration, not a clinical photo.
  • What helpsStop all new products, wash the area gently with water and a fragrance-free cleanser
  • AvoidLead in unregulated kohl and some counterfeit lipsticks
  • On darker skinOn brown and black skin, allergic reactions may look dark brown, purple or grey rather than red
  • Key pointFragrance and preservatives cause most reactions
  • Key pointPPD needs a 48-hour patch test every time
  • Key pointAvoid lightening makeup and unlabelled kohl

Key points

  • Fragrance and preservatives cause most reactions.
  • PPD needs a 48-hour patch test every time.
  • Avoid lightening makeup and unlabelled kohl.

Fragrance

The most common cause of cosmetic allergy. Look for parfum, aroma and the named allergens (limonene, linalool, geraniol, citronellol, eugenol, cinnamal and others).

Preservatives

Methylisothiazolinone and methylchloroisothiazolinone (MI/MCI) caused an epidemic of allergy and are banned in EU leave-on cosmetics. Formaldehyde releasers (DMDM hydantoin, quaternium-15, imidazolidinyl and diazolidinyl urea, bronopol) can trigger reactions in people allergic to formaldehyde.

Hair-dye and brow tint

PPD (p-phenylenediamine) in brow and lash tints and dark hair dyes is a potent allergen. Patch-test 48 hours before every use and never use "black henna".

Metals and pigments

Nickel and chromium can contaminate some pigments and tools. Carmine (CI 75470), a red from insects, can cause allergy in lipsticks and blushes.

Natural is not always gentle

Lanolin (wool fat), propolis (bee glue) and essential oils are common allergens in natural products. Cocamidopropyl betaine, a mild foaming agent in cleansers and removers, occasionally causes allergy.

Contaminants to avoid

Lead in unregulated kohl and some counterfeit lipsticks; mercury in skin-lightening creams and lightening makeup; asbestos contamination in untested talc; PFAS ("fluoro" ingredients such as PTFE) in some long-wear products, where long-term effects are still being studied — avoid them if you prefer, while knowing the evidence is still developing.

Allergy versus irritation

Irritation is direct damage to the skin and can happen to anyone with enough exposure — for example, stinging from alcohol or acids. It usually appears within minutes to hours and settles when the product is stopped. Allergy (allergic contact dermatitis) is an immune reaction that only affects people who have become sensitised. It often appears 24 to 72 hours after contact, can spread beyond where the product was applied, itches intensely, and recurs every time you use that ingredient. Once you are allergic to an ingredient, you usually remain so for life.

How doctors find the cause

Patch testing is the standard method. Small amounts of common allergens are taped to the back for 48 hours and read again at about 72 to 96 hours. It is different from home patch testing, which only tests a single product. If you have repeated rashes from cosmetics, especially on the eyelids, face or lips, ask a doctor about referral for patch testing; knowing the exact allergen lets you read labels with confidence.

Hidden names

Allergens hide under many names. Fragrance may appear as parfum, aroma, masking fragrance or a list of essential oils; formaldehyde releasers as DMDM hydantoin, quaternium-15, imidazolidinyl urea, diazolidinyl urea, bronopol or sodium hydroxymethylglycinate; lanolin as wool wax, wool alcohol or adeps lanae; PPD relatives as toluene-2,5-diamine. The ingredient checker in this app recognises many of these.

How reactions look on darker skin

On brown and black skin, allergic reactions may look dark brown, purple or grey rather than red, and can be harder to spot early. Dry, thickened, itchy patches on the eyelids, neck or around the mouth are common. After the reaction settles, dark marks can last for months, so prevention matters.

What to do after a reaction

Stop all new products, wash the area gently with water and a fragrance-free cleanser, and use a plain moisturiser or petrolatum. Do not apply home remedies such as lime, toothpaste or bleaching creams. Seek urgent help (112) for swelling of the lips, tongue or throat, difficulty breathing, or a widespread blistering rash. For milder reactions that do not settle within a week, see a doctor or pharmacist.

Keeping perspective

Most people never react to makeup, and most ingredients on this list are used safely by millions. The list is a tool for people who react, not a reason to fear cosmetics. If you have never had a problem, reading for fragrance and patch-testing new products is usually enough.

Natural and handmade products

Locally made or "organic" soaps, balms and powders can be excellent, but they are a common source of reactions in clinics because they often contain several essential oils, propolis, lanolin or unlisted herbs. If you buy handmade products, ask for a full ingredient list, choose fragrance-free versions where possible, and patch-test for a week before using on the face. Avoid handmade products that claim to lighten or "tone" skin, as these sometimes contain hidden mercury, hydroquinone or steroids.

Children and allergens

Children can become sensitised early. Avoid perfumed products on babies, keep "makeup" for play to products made for children, and never use kohl, henna tattoos ("black henna") or hair dye on children.

Using this list

If you know your allergen, add it to your profile in this app so product pages and the ingredient checker flag it for you.

Important

When to see a doctor

See a doctor or pharmacist if a problem is spreading, painful, bleeding, not improving after a few weeks of gentle care, or if you are unsure what it is. Visit a hospital or clinic and ask to see a dermatologist (skin specialist), or ask your general doctor for a referral. Take the products you use with you. Emergency: call 112.

Sources

  1. DermNet: Fragrance allergy
  2. DermNet: Methylisothiazolinone allergy
  3. DermNet: PPD allergy
  4. FDA: Talc
  5. WHO: Mercury in skin lightening products
  6. FDA: Lead in cosmetics (includes kohl)

Source links checked 2026-10-12. Doctor review pending. Education only, not a diagnosis. Ask a doctor or pharmacist before starting treatment.