A gentle wash-day routine

What it is

Wash day cleans the scalp and resets moisture.

How it works

Shampoo removes oil, sweat and product; conditioner smooths the cuticle and reduces friction.

Why it matters on darker skin

Textured hair dries quickly, so conditioning is essential.

Causes and triggers

Build-up, sweat, protective styles.

What helps — and why it works

Pre-poo or detangle with conditioner: reduces breakage. Expected timeline: immediate. Shampoo the scalp: cleans. Expected timeline: every 1–2 weeks. Condition and detangle: smooths cuticle. Expected timeline: immediate. Leave-in and seal: retains moisture. Expected timeline: days.

More detail

A typical wash day for coily or curly hair can be broken into a few calm stages. Before washing, separate hair into four to eight sections and, if it is very tangled, apply conditioner or oil to the lengths for 15–30 minutes (a 'pre-poo') so detangling is easier. Wash the scalp with your fingertips, not your nails, and let the lather run down the lengths rather than scrubbing them. Apply conditioner generously and detangle each section gently from the tips upward. Once or twice a month, a deep conditioner left on for 15–30 minutes with gentle warmth can improve softness, particularly for high-porosity hair. Rinse with lukewarm water, blot with a cotton T-shirt or microfibre towel, and apply leave-in conditioner and a sealing cream or oil. Finish with a low-tension style — twists, braids or a loose puff — and protect with satin at night.

What to avoid and why

Avoid hot water and rough towels.

Common mistakes

• Skipping scalp cleansing under wigs.

Handling textured hair gently

Coily and curly hair is naturally the most fragile hair type because each bend in the strand is a weak point and natural oils travel down it slowly. That makes handling — how often and how firmly hair is combed, styled and pulled — as important as which products you buy. Detangle only when hair is wet and coated in conditioner, working in sections from the ends towards the roots with fingers or a wide-tooth comb. Keep heat to the lowest effective setting and always use a heat protectant. Sleep on satin or silk, or wear a satin bonnet, to reduce friction. Between wash days, a water-based leave-in followed by a light oil or cream helps hold moisture. Give the scalp attention too: it is skin, and needs regular cleansing, especially under wigs, weaves and braids, to prevent build-up, itch and infection. Any style that hurts, causes bumps or leaves the scalp tender is too tight and should be loosened. Hair grows about one centimetre a month, so changes in care take two to three months to show in length and thickness.

Scalp health and product choice

Choose a shampoo that suits the scalp and a conditioner that suits the lengths: the scalp may need cleansing or a medicated shampoo while the ends need moisture. Fragrance, essential oils and heavy waxes can irritate a sensitive scalp or cause build-up, and heavy oils on the scalp may worsen dandruff. Look for a clear ingredient list and a NAFDAC number, and patch-test new dyes and relaxers 48 hours before every use. Products that promise dramatic growth are usually untested; the treatments with the best evidence for pattern hair loss are medicines such as minoxidil, which should be started only after speaking to a pharmacist or doctor. Signs that you need medical advice rather than a new product include patches of hair loss, scarring or shiny skin, pain, pus, or shedding that continues for more than six months.

Questions to ask your doctor or pharmacist

Useful questions include: What do you think is causing this? Is it likely to come back, and how can I prevent it? Which products should I stop? How long before I should expect improvement, and when should I come back if it isn't better? Are there side effects to watch for? Is this treatment safe if I am pregnant, breastfeeding or for my child? Writing your questions down, bringing your products (or photos of their labels) and taking dated photos of the problem make an appointment much more useful.