Myth: "Trimming makes hair grow faster"

The myth

Regular trims are often said to make hair grow faster.

The facts: how it really works

Hair grows from the follicle under the scalp at about 1 cm (half an inch) per month; what happens at the ends cannot signal the root. Trimming removes split ends, which otherwise travel up the shaft and snap.

Why it matters on darker skin

Coily hair is prone to splits and knots at the ends, so length retention depends heavily on caring for the ends.

Where the myth comes from

People see longer, healthier-looking hair after regular trims because less is breaking off.

What actually helps — and why

Trim split ends every 2–3 months: stops splits travelling. Expected timeline: ongoing. Protect ends: satin, gentle detangling. Expected timeline: weeks.

More detail

A follicle produces hair at a rate largely set by genetics, age and health — on average around 1 cm, or roughly half an inch, a month, and often a little slower for tightly coiled hair. The ends of the hair are dead keratin with no connection to the follicle, so cutting them cannot change how fast the root works. What trimming does is remove frayed, split ends. A split end can run further up the shaft and cause the strand to snap, so hair that is never trimmed may break off as fast as it grows and seem 'stuck' at a certain length. Regular light trims, combined with gentle handling, moisturising and protective night-time care, help you keep the length you grow. Use sharp, dedicated hair scissors: blunt household scissors crush the hair cuticle and can create more splits.

What to avoid and why

Avoid blunt household scissors, which can fray ends.

Common mistakes

• Over-trimming in hope of faster growth.

Handling textured hair gently

Coily and curly hair is naturally the most fragile hair type because each bend in the strand is a weak point and natural oils travel down it slowly. That makes handling — how often and how firmly hair is combed, styled and pulled — as important as which products you buy. Detangle only when hair is wet and coated in conditioner, working in sections from the ends towards the roots with fingers or a wide-tooth comb. Keep heat to the lowest effective setting and always use a heat protectant. Sleep on satin or silk, or wear a satin bonnet, to reduce friction. Between wash days, a water-based leave-in followed by a light oil or cream helps hold moisture. Give the scalp attention too: it is skin, and needs regular cleansing, especially under wigs, weaves and braids, to prevent build-up, itch and infection. Any style that hurts, causes bumps or leaves the scalp tender is too tight and should be loosened. Hair grows about one centimetre a month, so changes in care take two to three months to show in length and thickness.

Scalp health and product choice

Choose a shampoo that suits the scalp and a conditioner that suits the lengths: the scalp may need cleansing or a medicated shampoo while the ends need moisture. Fragrance, essential oils and heavy waxes can irritate a sensitive scalp or cause build-up, and heavy oils on the scalp may worsen dandruff. Look for a clear ingredient list and a NAFDAC number, and patch-test new dyes and relaxers 48 hours before every use. Products that promise dramatic growth are usually untested; the treatments with the best evidence for pattern hair loss are medicines such as minoxidil, which should be started only after speaking to a pharmacist or doctor. Signs that you need medical advice rather than a new product include patches of hair loss, scarring or shiny skin, pain, pus, or shedding that continues for more than six months.

Questions to ask your doctor or pharmacist

Useful questions include: What do you think is causing this? Is it likely to come back, and how can I prevent it? Which products should I stop? How long before I should expect improvement, and when should I come back if it isn't better? Are there side effects to watch for? Is this treatment safe if I am pregnant, breastfeeding or for my child? Writing your questions down, bringing your products (or photos of their labels) and taking dated photos of the problem make an appointment much more useful.