Caring for locs

What it is

Locs are matted strands formed by the hair's natural coil.

How it works

Clean, dry locs mature well; trapped moisture can cause odour and mildew.

Why it matters on darker skin

Heavy locs can cause traction at the hairline.

Causes and triggers

Infrequent washing, heavy products, tight retwisting.

What helps — and why it works

Wash regularly and dry thoroughly: prevents build-up. Avoid over-retwisting: reduces traction and thinning.

More detail

Locs form as coiled hair is allowed to knot and mesh together over months; the early 'starter' stage is the most delicate. Once mature, locs still need regular cleansing: oil, sweat, dead skin and product residue collect inside them and, if locs stay damp for long, can produce mildew odour ('loc rot'). Use a residue-free shampoo, rinse thoroughly, squeeze out water and dry fully — in the sun, under a hooded dryer or with a microfibre towel. Light oils on the scalp are fine, but heavy waxes, butters and gels build up and are hard to remove. Retwisting too often or too tightly pulls on the roots and can cause thinning or traction alopecia at the hairline and where locs are heavy; spacing maintenance out and supporting long locs reduce tension. Thinning at the root, scalp pain or bumps should be checked by a doctor.

What to avoid and why

Avoid beeswax and heavy residues.

Common mistakes

• Retwisting too tightly.

Handling textured hair gently

Coily and curly hair is naturally the most fragile hair type because each bend in the strand is a weak point and natural oils travel down it slowly. That makes handling — how often and how firmly hair is combed, styled and pulled — as important as which products you buy. Detangle only when hair is wet and coated in conditioner, working in sections from the ends towards the roots with fingers or a wide-tooth comb. Keep heat to the lowest effective setting and always use a heat protectant. Sleep on satin or silk, or wear a satin bonnet, to reduce friction. Between wash days, a water-based leave-in followed by a light oil or cream helps hold moisture. Give the scalp attention too: it is skin, and needs regular cleansing, especially under wigs, weaves and braids, to prevent build-up, itch and infection. Any style that hurts, causes bumps or leaves the scalp tender is too tight and should be loosened. Hair grows about one centimetre a month, so changes in care take two to three months to show in length and thickness.

Scalp health and product choice

Choose a shampoo that suits the scalp and a conditioner that suits the lengths: the scalp may need cleansing or a medicated shampoo while the ends need moisture. Fragrance, essential oils and heavy waxes can irritate a sensitive scalp or cause build-up, and heavy oils on the scalp may worsen dandruff. Look for a clear ingredient list and a NAFDAC number, and patch-test new dyes and relaxers 48 hours before every use. Products that promise dramatic growth are usually untested; the treatments with the best evidence for pattern hair loss are medicines such as minoxidil, which should be started only after speaking to a pharmacist or doctor. Signs that you need medical advice rather than a new product include patches of hair loss, scarring or shiny skin, pain, pus, or shedding that continues for more than six months.

Questions to ask your doctor or pharmacist

Useful questions include: What do you think is causing this? Is it likely to come back, and how can I prevent it? Which products should I stop? How long before I should expect improvement, and when should I come back if it isn't better? Are there side effects to watch for? Is this treatment safe if I am pregnant, breastfeeding or for my child? Writing your questions down, bringing your products (or photos of their labels) and taking dated photos of the problem make an appointment much more useful.