Harmattan skin care

What it is

Harmattan brings dry, dusty air that pulls moisture from skin.

How it works

Low humidity increases water loss from the outer skin layer, causing flaking, cracking and itch.

Why it matters on darker skin

Dryness makes darker skin look ashy and makes eczema flare.

Causes and triggers

Dry wind, dust, cold mornings, long hot showers.

What helps — and why it works

Thicker moisturiser and petrolatum on lips: seals water in. Expected timeline: days. Shorter, lukewarm showers: preserve oils. Expected timeline: immediate. Sunscreen still: sun is strong. Expected timeline: daily.

More detail

From roughly November to March, the harmattan trade wind brings dry, dusty air from the Sahara across much of Nigeria, with low humidity, cooler mornings and strong sun. Skin, lips and hair lose water quickly, so dryness, cracking heels, chapped lips, flaky scalps and eczema flares are common. Switch to a richer cream or ointment during these months, applying it after bathing and again at night; petroleum jelly is an effective, affordable lip balm and cuticle treatment. Hair needs extra moisture and sealing, and protective styles can reduce exposure to dust. Drink enough water and consider a humidifier or a bowl of water in the bedroom. Dust and dry air can also irritate eyes and airways; people with asthma should make sure their inhalers are up to date. Sunscreen remains important because the sun is still strong even when it feels cool.

What to avoid and why

Avoid licking lips and harsh soaps.

Common mistakes

• Skipping moisturiser on legs and feet.

Building a routine that lasts

Most skin problems improve with a short routine used every day rather than many products used occasionally. A practical base is a gentle cleanser, a fragrance-free moisturiser and a broad-spectrum sunscreen in the morning, with one targeted treatment at night. Introduce one new product at a time and give it two weeks before adding another, so that if your skin reacts you know the cause. Patch-test on the inner arm or behind the ear for a few days first. Skin renews itself roughly every four to six weeks, so most treatments need two to three cycles — eight to twelve weeks — before you can judge them fairly. Photographs taken in the same light every four weeks are more reliable than memory. In the Nigerian climate, heat, humidity and harmattan all change what your skin needs: lighter gels in the humid season and richer creams in dry months are both reasonable. If a product stings for more than a few minutes, causes swelling, or leaves new dark patches, stop it. Buy from registered pharmacies or official stockists, and use the Authenticity Check if you are unsure whether a product is genuine.

Reading labels and choosing products

On the label, look first for the active ingredient and whether the product is fragrance-free and non-comedogenic. Ingredients are listed in order of amount, so an active at the end of a long list may be present only in a small quantity. Be wary of products that promise results in days, that list no ingredients, or whose label is a sticker or handwritten. Words such as 'natural', 'herbal', 'organic' and 'dermatologist-inspired' are marketing terms, not safety standards. Hydroquinone, mercury compounds (sometimes listed as calomel or mercurous chloride) and strong steroids such as clobetasol do not belong in an over-the-counter cosmetic. A real NAFDAC registration number should be printed on the pack and should match the product on the official Greenbook register. Price is not proof: counterfeiters copy expensive brands. When in doubt, ask a pharmacist, keep your receipt, and use Melanin & Me's Authenticity Check and barcode scanner as a first screen.

Questions to ask your doctor or pharmacist

Useful questions include: What do you think is causing this? Is it likely to come back, and how can I prevent it? Which products should I stop? How long before I should expect improvement, and when should I come back if it isn't better? Are there side effects to watch for? Is this treatment safe if I am pregnant, breastfeeding or for my child? Writing your questions down, bringing your products (or photos of their labels) and taking dated photos of the problem make an appointment much more useful.