How to spot fake and dangerous creams

What it is

Fake creams copy the packaging of known brands but contain different, often harmful, ingredients. "Mixed" or "toning" creams are made by combining products, sometimes with steroids, hydroquinone or mercury, and sold in plain tubs or re-filled containers.

How it works

Counterfeiters copy packaging but use cheaper or illegal ingredients to make products feel or work 'fast'. Steroids reduce redness quickly, mercury and hydroquinone lighten quickly — both at a serious cost.

Why it matters on darker skin

Lightening and "glow" products are widely sold in Nigeria and are the products most often faked or adulterated. Hidden steroids and mercury cause stretch marks, thin fragile skin, acne, ochronosis (blue-black patches) and, with mercury, kidney and nerve damage.

Causes and triggers

High demand for lightening and 'glow' products, unregulated markets, social-media sellers and price pressure.

What helps — and why it works

Buy from the brand's official store, a registered pharmacy or a major supermarket, and keep the receipt. Check that a NAFDAC registration number is printed on the pack and look it up on NAFDAC's official register (the Greenbook) to see that the product name and company match. Inspect the packaging: correct spelling and logo, sharp print, a printed batch number and expiry date, and an intact seal. Read the ingredients for mercury (mercurous chloride, calomel), hydroquinone and steroids such as clobetasol or betamethasone. The Melanin & Me Authenticity Check walks you through these steps. Check the NAFDAC number on the official register: a genuine product's number should match its name and company. Expected timeline: minutes. Scan the barcode and compare: mismatches are a red flag (although a barcode can be copied). Expected timeline: seconds. Buy from official stockists and keep receipts: reduces your chance of a fake and helps reporting.

What to avoid and why

Products with no ingredient list, handwritten or sticker labels, "whitening in 7 days" claims, unusually low prices, unsealed or re-filled tubs, and creams sold by the scoop. Do not mix products yourself.

Common mistakes

• Trusting a product because it is in a well-known box.
• Buying from tubs re-filled at the market.
• Assuming a NAFDAC number alone proves authenticity.

Building a routine that lasts

Most skin problems improve with a short routine used every day rather than many products used occasionally. A practical base is a gentle cleanser, a fragrance-free moisturiser and a broad-spectrum sunscreen in the morning, with one targeted treatment at night. Introduce one new product at a time and give it two weeks before adding another, so that if your skin reacts you know the cause. Patch-test on the inner arm or behind the ear for a few days first. Skin renews itself roughly every four to six weeks, so most treatments need two to three cycles — eight to twelve weeks — before you can judge them fairly. Photographs taken in the same light every four weeks are more reliable than memory. In the Nigerian climate, heat, humidity and harmattan all change what your skin needs: lighter gels in the humid season and richer creams in dry months are both reasonable. If a product stings for more than a few minutes, causes swelling, or leaves new dark patches, stop it. Buy from registered pharmacies or official stockists, and use the Authenticity Check if you are unsure whether a product is genuine.

Reading labels and choosing products

On the label, look first for the active ingredient and whether the product is fragrance-free and non-comedogenic. Ingredients are listed in order of amount, so an active at the end of a long list may be present only in a small quantity. Be wary of products that promise results in days, that list no ingredients, or whose label is a sticker or handwritten. Words such as 'natural', 'herbal', 'organic' and 'dermatologist-inspired' are marketing terms, not safety standards. Hydroquinone, mercury compounds (sometimes listed as calomel or mercurous chloride) and strong steroids such as clobetasol do not belong in an over-the-counter cosmetic. A real NAFDAC registration number should be printed on the pack and should match the product on the official Greenbook register. Price is not proof: counterfeiters copy expensive brands. When in doubt, ask a pharmacist, keep your receipt, and use Melanin & Me's Authenticity Check and barcode scanner as a first screen.

Questions to ask your doctor or pharmacist

Useful questions include: What do you think is causing this? Is it likely to come back, and how can I prevent it? Which products should I stop? How long before I should expect improvement, and when should I come back if it isn't better? Are there side effects to watch for? Is this treatment safe if I am pregnant, breastfeeding or for my child? Writing your questions down, bringing your products (or photos of their labels) and taking dated photos of the problem make an appointment much more useful.